Annecy

For out first weekend we decided we wanted to go to Annecy, a town on the edges of the Alps and a major sport-vacation area for the French and British. You can hike, bike, boat, scuba, stroll; eat fondue, and more in this charming city. Stephanie, and a guy from Providence named Matt and I left the rest of the group hanging out in Yessingeaux for the weekend and hoped on a number of trains. It was a very long journey to get to Annecy from Yessingeaux. The French countryside is truly beautiful. The first leg of our journey from Retrounac to St. Etienne was enchanting as the sun rose and burnt off the mist from the hills and valleys. White cliffs jutted out from thick underbrush and lined a quiet and slow river flowing along the valley floor. From Lyon to Aix de Bains our train hugged the rim of a long, narrow lake, dotted with fishing boats and sailboats. Across the water we could make out magnificent chateaus. One looked exactly like the town in the Little Mermaid when Ariel first becomes a human and is stranded on the beach. Obviously, I felt like I could be in a fairy tale.

Annecy is lovely and warm. We found our hotel, Hotel Central, easily from the train station. The room is small and quirky, but the price is right and its well located. We are on the third floor and the back alley out our window is actually one of the many canals running through Annecy. We left our window open to let in the beautiful day. Children played below and the café’s hummed busily. Real church bells sound the hour across the street and the room resonated with the noise of the day.

          

Annecy is at first glance a busy European city, full of narrow streets and cobbled side walks. Then it gives way to a series of canals and walkways in the center of town, overflowing with flowers reflected in the teal waters below. The canals look like Venice- there are doors and docks that open on the water, but I never saw any boats, so I don’t think they are used anymore. The canals all lead out to the lake, which is full of any amusement you could want. Paddle boats, river cruises, kayaks, scuba divers and more wait to take you on the water.

We grabbed lunch right outside our hotel, a brief bite of pizza and a bottle of water. We painfully hobble together our French. Then we made our way to the Ives Thuries chocolate shop. He is the co-owner of our school with Alain Ducasse. I bought a citron (lemon) tart and a milk chocolate and salted caramel with fleur de sel. Stephanie got the caramel as well and a tart noir (dark chocolate). Matt got dark chocolate framboise (raspberry) and a “sachet” of white chocolate macaroons. We walked to the park on the lakes’ edge and indulged ourselves. The caramel was incredibly soft without being runny, and each bite was the perfect texture. The filling of the chocolate framboise was decadent and fluffy. The tart noir, oh, the tart noir. The crust was a delicate, almost crystal-y crunchy short bread crust and it contained two layers of dark chocolate inside. It could not be better. The citron tart had the same delicious crust and the lemon filling was a perfect balance of sweet and tart. I love lemon tarts.

 

We hiked up, up, up and around a diocese trying to get into the church. After about a 30-minute hike up a mountain we finally arrived at the front of the church. I think I almost killed Matt and Stephanie with my Colorado pace, but we made it. Once at the church I realized if we had taken a right turn at the beginning, we only would have had to walk up 20 steps or so. Oh well, we needed to work off our lunch of chocolate. I don’t know much about the church, except silent nuns live there. Everything was in French so I am an uninformed American.

 

We ate dinner along the canal directly across from the famous women’s prison that is in every photo of Annecy. We ordered a prix fix meal of salad and cold cuts, delicious Swiss fondue, and chocolate fondue. All the French that passed by laughed at the chocolate fondue. Maybe only Americans eat chocolate fondue? I’m not sure, but apparently, something was funny. It was a slow, relaxing, delicious dinner, and we all went to bed fat and happy.

 

The next morning we all took an hour-long boat tour of lake Annecy, which is a sizable lake. We saw all the different towns that ring the lake, complete with major chateaus and castles. We learned some history, but the French guide would speak for 10 minutes, then the English guide would speak for maybe a minute. Either the French are excessively wordy, or the English passengers learned a whole lot less information. The water is an incredible teal color, and the cliffs and towns around were movie picturesque. The lighting wasn’t great for pictures, but it was a lovely ride. Para-gliders flew high above, wake boarders crashed by, and kayakers hugged the cliffs. There was a castle on a peninsula that looked absolutely fairly tale worthy.

 

 

 

             

We landed back in Annecy just in time to catch the end of the Sunday markets. There were freshly fallen chestnuts, a rainbow of green beans, beautiful garlic, and fresh flowers. There was also sausage, cheese, bread, and clothes. We bought cheap Paninis and wandered through the marked.

 

 

Then, before I could even finish my lunch we arrived at the most popular elaterid (there were hundreds in the town, it seemed) and ordered the first of our two ice cream cones of the day. I had a double (with a “free” third scoop) of framboise, citron, and almond. The second time around that day I had tiramisu and the most amazing dark chocolate. I’m in love with this dark chocolate gelato. In love. 

The town was full of lovely chocolate shops and here are some of my favorite arrangements.

Also, I experienced my first French lingerie shop. The window was covered with different underwear, and fake squirrels frolicked among the underwear. I’m really unsure what the marketing message is behind that. Anyone?

There weren’t many important historical sites the see in Annecy, and overall we simply enjoyed ourselves, delicious food, and took many walks. Lovely Annecy.